
The Seville restaurant scene is one of the finest in Spain with good eateries to enjoy just about everywhere.
There is fine Spanish dining to be found but don't think about dinner before 8pm - the locals in Seville dine late. It's also probably best to avoid the Cathedral and Giralda areas unless you want to splash out - menus there can be pricey.
Tapas is everywhere, so you can combine a tour of Seville's character bars with delicious snacks along the way.
Tapas originated in Seville to protect the local Fino or Manzanilla sherry. Wine glasses were supplied with small tops, or tapas, to keep the flies away. A food snack appeared and tapas were born.
Seville tapas is a fun, and generally inexpensive way to eat. Try the tapas at a series of bars or restaurants. They come in three sizes - tapas; raciones - large plates of the same food - and inbetween, ½ raciones. Tapas are displayed on the bar or with a menu, the 'lista de las tapas'.
Typical Seville tapas dishes include anchovies, both salted (anchoas) and in vinegar (boquerones); meatballs (albóndigas); potato tortilla; peppers; slices of cheese, particularly aged Manchego, and of chorizo; vegetables in oil; chicken, possibly on a skewer, and much more. Raciones will also include dishes like mixed fried fish and chicken with potatoes.
The Spanish king and queen are said to enjoy tapas at the Casablanc (c. Adolf Rodriguez Jurado, 12) when staying in Seville. Other tapas favourites include Bar Estrella (c. Estrella) and the Vineria San Telmo (Catalina de Ribera, 4).
Restaurants in Seville are often graded (1 to 5 forks) and often have a menu of the day, or menú del día. Seville restaurants called Marisquerias specialise in fish and seafood. Many up-market restaurants offer tasting menus, or menú de degustación.
Wine from the Seville region is generally best value, with Montilla-Moriles the local white wine. Local reds are not so common so a safe choice may be reliable reds from Rioja, Penedes etc.
The Barri Santa Cruz area is where most restaurants are concentrated. There's a cluster next to the Cathedral exit where Robles is a favourite. It serves tapas downstairs and on tables in the street. Upstairs, there's a very pleasant restaurant with an interesting menu and good presentation.
West of the Cathedral, another group of restaurants is focused on the lively Mateus Gago, although they mostly serve tapas. The popularity of Bodega Santa Cruz is clear from the crowds gathered outside an it has a wonderful range of bites. The Cervecería Giralda serves traditional dishes in what was once a Muslim bath house.
On Calle San Fernando, the long-established Egano Oriza has an excellent reputation with Basque-influenced dishes.
Extraverde, on the pleasant Plaza Dona Elvira, opened in 2009 and is proving popular for its tapas and sandwiches.
Between the Cathedral and the bullring, in El Arenal, Enrique Becerra is a smart family-run business offering hearty Andalucian dishes in a pleasant, intimate room. It's very popular Seville restaurant so it is best to book ahead.
In the same area, try Mesón Cinco Jotas in c/Castelar for tapas, including fine Iberico ham. The Iberian pork sirloin in sweet wine is a superb dish and real favourite. Top quality fish can be found at Arenal Sevilla, in the Mercado del Arenal. It's pricey but the fish is as fresh as you'll find next to the sea.
Plaza de la Alfalfa has a lively tapas scene - try La Trastienda or La Bodega while El Patio San Eloy has excellent ham and small filled rolls called burgillos. Students congregate at Bar Levies for the generous raciones.
Restaurants in the area include Habanita serving a variety of Andalucian and Cuban dishes plus a choice of vegetarian dishes.
Near to the Museo de Bellas Artes, the Casa Salva is hugely popular restaurant and offers traditional home-cooking. It's only open from 1pm to 5pm on weekdays.
If you want a change of style from Spanish, try Porta Rossa in Calle Pastor y Landero. The decor is simple, the food Italian and it is a very popular Seville restaurant.
There's a selection of restaurants across the river. Abades Triana at Calle Betis 69A offers traditional dishes with a modern twist.
The Giralda Tower, when first built was the world's tallest building