Seville's tapas and restaurant scene is one of the finest in Spain. There is fine Spanish dining to be found, although don't think about dinner before 8pm - the locals dine late. Tapas is everywhere, so you can combine a tour of the city's character bars with snacks along the way.
Seville tapas
Tapas originated in Seville to protect the local drink, Fino or Manzanilla sherry. It started with the wine glasses being supplied with small tops, or tapas, to keep the flies away. Soon, a small food snack appeared and tapas were born.
It's a fun, and generally inexpensive way to eat. Also, you can try the tapas at a series of bars or restaurants. They come in three sizes - tapas; raciones - normally large plates of the same food - and in between, ½ raciones. They will either be displayed on the bar or there will be a menu, the lista de las tapas.
Typical tapas dishes include anchovies, both salted (anchoas) and in vinegar (boquerones); meatballs (albóndigas); potato tortilla; peppers; slices of cheese, particularly aged Manchego, and of chorizo; vegetables in oil; chicken, possibly on a skewer, and much more. Raciones will also include dishes like mixed fried fish and chicken with potatoes.
Seville restaurants
Restaurants in Seville are often graded (1 to 5 forks) and will usually have a menu of the day, or menú del día. Those called Marisquerias specialise in fish and seafood. Many up-scale establishments offer tasting menus, or menú de degustación. Wine from the region is generally best value, with Montilla-Moriles the local white wine. Local reds are not so common so a safe choice may be reliable reds from Rioja, Penedes etc.
Barri Santa Cruz
The Barri Santa Cruz area is where most restaurants are concentrated. There's a cluster next to the Cathedral exit where Robles is a favourite. It serves tapas downstairs and the tables on the street outside. Upstairs, there's a very pleasant restaurant with an interesting menu and well presented cooking.
West of the Cathedral, there's another group focused on the lively Mateus Gago, although most establishments serve mainly tapas. The Bodega Santa Cruz is very popular for tapas, reflected in the crowds gathered outside but it does have a wonderful range of bites. The Cervecería Giralda serves traditional dishes in what was once a Muslim bath house.
El Arenal
Between the Cathedral and the bullring, in El Arenal, Enrique Becerra is a smart family-run business offering hearty Andalucian dishes in a pleasant, intimate room. It's very popular so worth booking ahead.
In the same area, try Mesón Cinco Jotas in c/Castelar for tapas, including fine Iberico ham. The Iberian pork sirloin in sweet wine is a superb dish and real favourite.
Top quality fish can be found at Arenal Sevilla, in the Mercado del Arenal. It's pricey but the fish is as good and fresh as you'll find next to the sea.
El Centro
Plaza de la Alfalfa has a lively Tapas scene - try La Trastienda or La Bodega while El Patio San Eloy has excellent ham and small filled rolls called burgillos. Students congregate at Bar Levies for the generous raciones.
Restaurants in the area include Habanita serving a variety of Andalucian and Cuban dishes plus a choice of vegetarian dishes.
Near to the Museo de Bellas Artes, the Casa Salva is hugely popular and offers traditional home-cooking. It's only open from 1pm - 5pm and is closed at weekends.
If you want a change of style from Spanish, try Porta Rossa in Calle Pastor y Landero. The decor is simple, the food Italian and it's very popular.
Seville tapas
Seville cafe
Sweet Seville 
Seville food
