Seville is the ultimate late-night city - hardly surprising given the searing summer heat and the near necessity of a siesta. In the evenings, the city comes alive, the bars are packed, often overflowing on to the streets, and tapas are consumed in quantity.
Apart from beer, drinks of choice in Seville are fino and manzanilla sherry, often from the barrel. In summer, tinto de verano, a mix of red wine and lemonade and similar to sangria, is very popular. Most places also serve tapas so you can eat while touring the bars.
Bars usually open from 6pm until 2am on weekdays and a couple of hours later at weekends, staying open until 4am. Partying tends to get under way at around midnight. In summer, the river bank becomes a popular area with lots of open-air bars along both banks of the Guadalquivir.
Barrio de Santa Cruz
The main areas to head for in Seville are around the Cathedral - several streets, such as Mateus Gagos, are packed with bars and small restaurants. The P Flaherty Irish pub next to the Cathedral exit is always busy while Antiguedades is a draw, although the skewered bread rolls hanging from the ceiling are an odd feature. The Plaza del Salvador, the streets focused on Gamazo and the Plaza Alfalfa area all have their fans.
Try the popular Bar Giralda in Mateus Gagos, in a converted Moorish bathhouse while the Casa Morales in García de Vinuesa serves sherry and wine from the barrel. Carbonería in c/Leviés is also worth searching out. It's the city's most famous bohemian bar and past visitors include Picasso and Peter Gabriel. There's sometimes great flamenco and, on Thursday nights, young musicians perform.
El Arenal
El Capote (c/de Arjona) is a popular spot next to the Puente de Triana. It has great music and appeals to a young, stylish clientele for al fresco beers and cocktails. Cafe Isibiliyya (Paseo de Cristobal Colon 2) is a gay music bar with drag-queen shows on Thursdays and Saturdays.
Further north, near the Museo de Bellas Artes, Anima is popular, with its old tiled bar, while near the river, La Barqueta is a great summer venue. Close to the Plaza del Salvador is El Refugio, while the square itself offers half a dozen bars that are often packed.
Triana
Across the river is the Casa Cuesta in c/de Castilla 3-5, a delight for wine lovers and with good food. In summer, a wide choice of riverside bars are also open.
You'll also find a selection of decent restaurants on this side of the river. Try the intimate Ristorante Cosa Nostra - despite its curious choice of name it's a friendly spot serving good quality pizza and pasta. It's in c/del Betis 52. Kiosco de las Flores at c/del Betis is long established - it used to be a shack, but has been modernised and does great fried fish.
Nightlife
Seville sherry
Seville cafe
Seville bar M
